Chapter
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01 - High Alpine Basics
HIGH ALPINE TOURING EQUIPMENT AND KNOT TECHNIQUES
02 - High alpine touring
ROPE TEAM AND WALKING BASICS
03 - Rescue methods
Protection and rescue methods
01 - HIGH ALPINE BASICS
Equipment for high alpine touringKnot techniquesHigh alpine touring – tour suggestions
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TOUR PLANNING

Follow the weather report carefully – ideally you can also get additional information about the weather and conditions from the locals, for example about increased risk of rockfall or a rock avalanche as a result of permafrost melting. The altitude, weather, terrain and equipment make touring in high alpine terrain much more challenging than “normal” alpine touring.

BASICS OF THE TOURENPLANING

PARTICIPANTS
WEATHER REPORT
AREA SELECTION
TIME PLANNING
EQUIPMENT
ROLLING PLANNING

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PARTICIPANTS
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WEATHER REPORT
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AREA SELECTION
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TIME PLANNING
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EQUIPMENT
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ROLLING PLANNING
PARTICIPANTS:

The ability, fitness and motivation of participants are essential for a harmonious, successful tour. Ensure nobody is overstrained.st.

WEATHER REPORT:

There are some excellent weather apps. The most precise are still those provided by state weather stations (free access to all weather data) such as Meteo Swiss, ZAMG = the Alpine Club weather report, Meteo Bozen, etc.

AREA SELECTION:

The location and route should be chosen based on the conditions and weather report. It’s not advisable to decide in advance on a specific tour on a specific weekend.

TIME PLANNING:

When will I be where? Plan your tour realistically according to the conditions and weather report.

EQUIPMENT:

Before the tour, check you have a complete set of suitable equipment. Who has what with them? Directly before setting off, check that everyone is fully equipped.

ROLLING PLANNING:

“Rolling planning” means that you constantly check that your schedule is going to plan. If you are deviating significantly from your original plan, you should retreat in good time.

SAFETY ON ALPINE TERRAIN

TIPS FOR TOUR PLANNING

Always ensure you include weather reports, glacier conditions and weather information from locals when planning your tour. Enquire about increased risk of rockfall as a result of permafrost melting. Due to the altitude and weather involved, any undertaking in high alpine terrain is much more challenging than an ordinary alpine tour. But the rewards are great!

ALPINE DANGERS

FALLING ROCKS
ROCK AVALANCHE
WET SNOW AVALANCHES
ESCARPMENTS
CORNICES
CREVASSES
SERACS
STEEP GLACIER SECTIONS

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FALLING ROCKS
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ROCK AVALANCHE
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WET SNOW AVALANCHES
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ESCARPMENTS
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CORNICES
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CREVASSES
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SERACS
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STEEP GLACIER SECTIONS
FALLING ROCKS:

You can take the risk of falling rocks into account. When choosing a route take the following into consideration: high temperatures, melted ice and firn flanks, and rope teams climbing ahead of you.

ROCK AVALANCHE:

Entire rock formations breaking off is fatal and, due to melting permafrost, the risk of this happening is almost impossible to calculate.

 

WET SNOW AVALANCHES:

Here it is important to consider temperature increases throughout the day and the risk of being carried away by an avalanche, particularly in spring. In the summer, sudden bouts of new snow can also pose an avalanche risk..

ESCARPMENTS:

The challenge posed by escarpments: They are often difficult to identify on a map. And they often present an obstacle that is difficult to overcome due to glacier retreat and snow ablation.

CORNICES:

You must keep sufficient distance from corniced ridges. Cornices often break off far from the identifiable edge.

CREVASSES:

It is difficult to identify crevasses that are covered by snow or firn. If the covering is wet (e.g. on afternoon descents) or consists of freshly fallen snow, the snow bridges will not hold the weight of a mountaineer (risk of a crevasse fall).

SERACS

Seracs are very tall towers of glacial ice – and because glaciers flow, collapsing seracs can cause falling ice, especially in warm periods. Keep sufficient distance from them and if necessary be prepared to make a detour!

STEEP GLACIER SECTIONS:

When glaciers get steeper than 30° and the firn is hard, there is a risk of the rope team swept downhill.

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Next chapter

ON THE HIGH ALPINE TOUR

Broaden your high alpine tour knowledge in Chapter 2: This chapter deals with roping up into a rope team, walking and self-arrest techniques on ice and firn, and coiling your rope.

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