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01 - High Alpine Basics
HIGH ALPINE TOURING EQUIPMENT AND KNOT TECHNIQUES
02 - High alpine touring
ROPE TEAM AND WALKING BASICS
03 - Rescue methods
Protection and rescue methods
03 - RESCUE METHODS
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Rescue method: Self-rescue the Prusik method
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Rescue method: Self-rescue using rope clamps
Subchapter Self-rescue

SELF-RESCUE

A fall victim can haul himself out of a crevasse using this method – which makes it suitable for two-man rope teams, for situations where building a solid anchor is impossible or when other members of the rope team do not have the expertise to execute a crevasse rescue using the hauling or pulley techniques. The self-rescue has two phases: In phase 1, you climb little by little towards the lip of the crevasse using the Prusik technique. In phase 2, you switch to a self-pulley system to climb over the lip of the crevasse.

For this self-rescue method you will need two Prusik loops of 180–250cm, one HMS carabiner and two identical snap carabiners.

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Step 5 Step 6
Self-ascending and setting up a foot loop

To create a system for self-ascending with a Prusik, tie a Prusik loop around the rope with an over hand knot directly beneath the Prusik. The ends of the accessory cords are to be tied into the belay loop on the harness using an over hand knot. Now clip a carabiner into the loop of the over hand knot beneath the Prusik hitch. The sling is the ideal length if it grabs the rope when your arm is outstretched.
A second, longer Prusik sling serves as the foot loop. Tie this to the rope with a Prusik hitch just below the leading Prusik loop, and adjust its length for optimum leverage – you should be able to get your foot in with your knee fully bent.

 

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Climbing up

Now stand up on your leg, holding the rope with one hand, while sliding your leading Prusik upwards.

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Pushing up your Prusiks

Sit in your leading Prusik, bend your knees and slide the foot loop Prusik hitch upwards. The two Prusik hitches are to be weighted alternately as you climb little by little towards the lip of the crevasse.

Pulley at the lip of the crevasse

The lip of the crevasse is where the rope has normally cut deep into the ice and firn and can no longer be climbed over using the conventional Prusik method. For this reason, it is necessary to set up a self-pulley system

First, clip out of the foot loop and prepare the redirect carabiner on the rope, as well as a reverse lock on the harness.

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Garda hitch

For the reverse lock or Garda hitch, clip two identical snap carabiners in parallel into the belay loop on the harness. Now clip the rope into the two carabiners from above, bring it back up and then clip it a second time into the top carabiner, so that the hauling rope now runs between the two carabiners. The hauling rope is now redirected through the upper carabiner of the leading Prusik. The rope can be pulled through in one direction, but is locked by the Garda hitch in the other direction – this enables you to haul yourself out of the crevasse by the self-pulley method.

ANIMATION: GARDA HITCH
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Alternative: Micro Traxion

Here, too, a Micro Traxion is preferable as a reverse lock on the harness instead of a Garda hitch. This rope clamp with integrated pulley is used initially as the clamp for the foot loop. Once you reach the lip of the crevasse, take the Micro Traxion off of the rope and clip it into the belay loop on the harness. The hauling rope is then redirected around the leading Prusik above. You’ve now completed the self-pulley system with minimized rope friction.

SELF-RESCUE

This method will enable you to single-handedly free yourself from a crevasse. A self-rescue has 2 phases: In PHASE 1, you climb toward the lip of the crevasse using the Prusik technique. Once at the lip of the crevasse, you can begin PHASE 2, the self-pulley system, which you use to get yourself over the lip.
For this method you use 2 Prusik slings (200–250 cm), 1 progress capture pulley and 1 rope clamp.

PHASE 1: SETTING UP A SELF-BELAY AND FOOT LOOP PHASE 1: ASCENT PHASE 1: ÜBERWINDUNG BREMSKNOTEN PHASE 2: SWITCHING TO SELF-PULLEY
1. SETTING UP A SELF-BELAY AND FOOT LOOP

Tie the accessory cord into the rope clamp (e.g. Petzl Basic) using a girth hitch, then tie the ends into the belay loop on your harness using an over hand knot. You could also use a 90cm sling. Use a girth hitch to first attach it to the clamp, then to your belay loop. Attach the rope clamp to the rope. The optimum sling length is when you can still reach above the clamp with an outstretched arm. Now attach the progress capture pulley under the first clamp and clip in a foot loop, adjusting the length so that you can step into it with a very bent leg.

 

2. ASCENT

Now straighten your leg. When doing this, hold the rope with one hand while sliding your self-belay rope clamp upwards with the other. Now sit in the tautened self-belay, bend your pushing leg and slide the progress capture pulley attached to the foot loop upward. In other words, you transfer your weight alternately from clamp to clamp and hoist yourself step by step towards the lip of the crevasse. If you reach a brake knot, slide the upper clamp to just below the knot and then slide the ascender directly to just below that.

3: ÜBERWINDUNG BREMSKNOTEN

Clip a screwgate carabiner into the figure-eight loop of your roping up knot, stand in the foot loop and clip yourself into the brake knot using the pre-prepared carabiner. You are now protected by the brake knot itself and as the clamp is no longer weighted down you can position it above the brake knot. Stand up in the foot loop, push the top clamp up, transfer your weight to it and unclip the carabiner from the brake knot. The brake knot rope is now loose and can be untied.

SELF-PULLEY – GETTING OVER THE LIP OF THE CREVASSE (PHASE 2)

If the rope has cut into the lip of firn, you must switch to a self-pulley system

4. SWITCHING TO SELF-PULLEY
Disassemble the foot loop from the progress-capture pulley and stow it away. Open the cam on the pulley and slide it down the rope to the belay loop on your harness, then clip into it with a carabiner before
locking the cam again. Take the rope that runs out from the pulley and redirect it through a carabiner on the top clamp. The rope can be pulled through in this direction, while in the other direction it brakes, allowing you to work yourself over the lip of the crevasse using it as a self-pulley system. This technique is extremely efficient and any brake knots in the rope can be rapidly overcome.

 

 

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