HIP BELT

Roping up with a hip belt for climbing is in line with the consensus of the Alpine Club. But there are small differences between the harnesses used in sport climbing, on high-altitude tours and in alpine climbing: while harnesses for sport climbing have fewer equipment loops, these are crucial for alpine climbing. There needs to be enough loops for quickdraws, various types of protection gear, materials to build belays, etc. Padding is less of a priority for alpine climbing than for sport climbing, as falls are largely avoided on alpine rock faces. Nevertheless, the harness should fit optimally and the straps at the back of the leg loops and on the hips should be wide enough, otherwise the harness will become uncomfortable and painful in a hanging position or during long rappelling.

In comparison, hip belts for high-altitude tours, which were not designed to be worn for long periods of time, do not have very wide straps, and are hardly padded at all. However they do have a minimal packing size and are extremely light.

HELMET

Helmets have two purposes in mountaineering and alpine climbing: Protecting against falling rocks and protecting against impact. Traditional mountaineering helmets have a plastic shell, making them robust but limited in terms of side impact protection. Modern in-mold helmets are comparatively light, as they are made up of a polystyrene core with a relatively soft outer shell. They provide optimal protection from impact but are more fragile due to their construction. Hybrid helmets aim to balance out the advantages and disadvantages of plastic and in-mold helmets: the foam construction is covered with plastic. Hybrid helmets provide good protection, but are still lightweight.

The operating life of all items of equipment made from plastic or textiles is max. 10 years. Belts, ropes, helmets, etc. must be replaced after 10 years at the very latest – even if they have not been used. In the case of heavy wear, it is possible that items must be discarded far earlier – in extreme cases (e.g. a serious fall) after one use.

CLIMBING SHOES

All climbing shoes have tread-less soles in order to create friction on the rock and to ensure precise steps. The various models differ in the hardness of their soles, their tension and their shape. Climbing shoes should be selected based upon their intended use. There is no such thing as a perfect all-rounder that can handle everything from bouldering problems to 20-pitch alpine tours.

On alpine routes where climbers can’t take off their shoes after every pitch, better wear comfort is required than in sport climbing, for example. Climbing shoes for alpine tours are therefore not as tight and have less or hardly any pre-tensioning. However, they also need to fit closely enough on slabs or on vertical climbs to allow precision climbing.

HMS (PEAR-SHAPED) CARABINER

an essential component of your equipment! There are basically two different types of HMS carabiners: carabiners with secured locking systems (= SafeLock carabiners) and those with unsecured locking systems (screwgate, twistlock). The former is mainly used for roping up on glaciers or on a top-rope, as it prevents accidental opening due to rope friction.
Unsecured HMS carabiners are used on alpine tours: they have a large opening which is ideal for protection, belaying or rappelling.

ATC

Dynamic braking devices are used in alpine climbing for protecting, belaying and rappelling. They generate the braking force through manual force on the brake rope. Semi-automatic belay devices like the Grigri and the Smart work differently. In these, the passage of the rope is automatically stopped in the event of sudden fall tension.

Therefore, dynamic braking devices such as ATC, HMS or figure eight are used in alpine climbing. However, an ATC must have a belay eyelet for use in alpine terrain (e.g. ATC GUIDE). This is required for belaying the second climber, as the disk function then allows for separate rope guidance and automatically blocks the rope. This is the safe and approved method for ensuring a safe belay of any following climbers on a rope team. In a two-man rope team, the first and second climbers can also be belayed using a munter hitch.

Semi-automatic belay devices can only be used on a single rope, which is why they are rarely or never used in alpine climbing. The advantages of double ropes include the possibility of retraction (rappelling) and their safety (redundancy due to second rope).

Chalkbag and Chalk

Chalk predominantly consists of powdered or liquid magnesium, which causes the hands to dry out. Sweat moisture is absorbed, providing better grip on the rock.

SLINGS

In mountaineering, slings are used on intermediate belay points or to connect fixed points. Slings must be knotted or sewn independently and are usually made of polyamide (nylon) or Dyneema. Sewn slings are also known as quickdraws. These sewn slings are used in alpine climbing on belays or as intermediate belay points (“alpine quickdraws”). The advantage of Alpine quickdraws is that they can be extended quickly as an intermediate belay point in order to reduce rope friction.

Depending on the route, climbers will have three prepared alpine quickdraws on their harness, as well as four open slings for tunnels and rocky knolls with lengths of 2 x 60, 90 cm and 120 cm.

HMS and screw carabiners

A traditional HMS carabiner has a large opening and takes its name from the abbreviation of the German term for the munter hitch, ‘Halbmastwurfsicherung’:

The HMS carabiner can be used with a munter hitch to belay both the lead and second climber, but is also used as a clove hitch for self-belaying and rappelling. In contrast, screw carabiners have smaller openings and are used less in (self-)belaying.

Snap carabiners

Snap carabiners are vital links in alpine climbing. They connect the rope to the hook or the traditional climbing equipment in the wall. Climbing carabiners are made of aluminum alloys and are fitted with either a straight or curved catch. Like HMS and screw carabiners, snap carabiners have to comply with a specific standard in terms of their minimum holding force.

Dyneema or Kevlar cords

Cords are available made from polyamide, polyethylene (Dyneema) or aramid (Kevlar). Although polyamide is extremely tear-resistant, it is weaker than Dyneema or Kevlar, which is why it has to be thicker and heavier so that it meets standard requirements. However, the advantage is the elasticity, which can absorb a lot of energy.

Dyneema is highly tear-resistant and light. It has the highest cut resistance, but is not very elastic.

Kevlar has essentially the same properties as Dyneema but is a bit heavier in comparison.

ATTENTION: Knotting reduces the strength of the cord material. Depending on the knot, the loss in strength could be 25 to 50%. At the same time, being suspended in a carabiner also reduces the cord’s break resistance.

Quickdraws

Quickdraws are an essential part of the basic equipment of any rope team. They consist of two carabiners attached with a piece of sling material. They have a protection or bolt side, which is clipped into the rock, and a rope side, into which the rope is clipped. The sling has some room for maneuver on the hook side to prevent tilting and transverse stress. On the rope side, the carabiner is usually fixed with a small rubber to prevent twisting. On alpine routes, it is advisable to take along extendible quickdraws in order to reduce any rope friction and to simplify handling.

FIRST AID KID/BIVI BAG

A first aid kit and bivi bag are minimum requirements for a rope team’s equipment. The following products must be included in a first aid kit: triangular bandage; gauze bandage; roll of adhesive medical tape; disposable gloves; small scissors; wound compress; bandage set. A good first aid kit should be clearly arranged and have an all-round zipper or a sufficiently large opening. In addition, each rope team must carry a double bivi bag in order to stay protected on the cliff face in the event of an emergency.

CAMMING DEVICES

Camming devices are adjustable, wedge-shaped objects that are used for protection in alpine terrain. They usually work based on a toggle principle to generate a sufficient friction effect on the walls in cracks in the rock. They can then absorb a longitudinal strain (fall.

Cam (Camalot) systems are used in alpine climbing. These are made in three or four segments and have one or two axles. Cam systems with one axle, which have four segments, are usually called “friends”. In a Camalot, the four segments are mounted on two axles. As a result, they can be contracted further and cover a larger crack width with the same size than with single-axle systems. In cam systems, (friends and cams), a flexible bar (extension of the cam) has become standard these days. The devices can thus also be positioned in transverse cracks or holes.

ATTENTION: Camming devices must meet certain standard requirements. Cheap imitation models frequently emerge that do not meet the standard and lead to serious accidents.

NUTS AND NUT REMOVER (NUT TOOL)

Nuts are non-adjustable, wedge-shaped (conical) camming devices which provide additional protection in alpine terrain and can absorb longitudinal strain. Unlike camming devices, they passively lock into a narrowing in the rock, while camming devices, on the other hand, actively expand in parallel slits.

Nuts can have various basic shapes and are therefore categorized as stoppers, hexentrics or tricams. As with camming devices, they are subject to a certain standard in terms of strength. However, their shapes and sizes may vary.

Climbers also need a nut remover called a nut tool to remove nuts from the crack. This is pressed or hit lightly against the nut in the opposite direction from the main load direction on the nut – usually from below.

Pitons and hammer

Seen as an antique by many climbers, normal pitons (also simply called pitons) are standard on some alpine rock faces – especially in South Tyrol. Although pitons have gone “out of fashion” thanks to bolts and advances in traditional climbing equipment, the South Tyroleans have opposed the refitting of routes with bolts. Bringing along pitons and hammers for alpine rock faces in the Alps can therefore be useful or even a matter of safety – either to reinforce existing hooks or to position new ones. This also allows climbers to be flexible in an emergency situation when a belay point needs to be established.

There are two different types of pitons: soft steel and high carbon steel pitons. High carbon steel pitons are used in prehistoric rock (granite and gneiss), because the cracks usually run in a straight line and the piton does not have to “adapt”. Soft steel pitons are used in limestone because they need to adapt to the course of the crack.

In terms of positioning, soft steel pitons should be able to be inserted one third of the shaft length into the crack, and high carbon steel pitons two thirds of the shaft length.

Knife for removing old rappelling slings

Equipment is often found on alpine rock faces that has been there for years – usually old slings on rappelling points. In such cases, it is important to pay attention to what condition the equipment is in. If necessary, a small knife carried in a climber’s bag can be used to cut worn, old slings from tunnels and pitons if these can no longer be used. In addition, in an emergency a climber’s own rope can be cut off if it has become jammed.